Japan
Kyoto
Koyo season — when the maples turn
Kyoto in spring gets the attention. Kyoto in autumn gets the experience. From mid-November through early December, koyo — the Japanese autumn foliage season — transforms the city's temple gardens into something that stops conversation. The maples in Eikan-do and Tofuku-ji go scarlet and orange against grey-tiled roofs and raked gravel gardens. The effect is genuinely theatrical, and the light in the afternoons is unlike anything in spring.
What makes autumn in Kyoto special beyond the visuals is the pace. The crowds have thinned from the October peak. The air is cool enough for long walks without the summer fatigue. The ryokans — traditional inns with tatami rooms and kaiseki dinners — feel at their most atmospheric when the garden outside the window has turned red and gold. November in Kyoto is one of the great travel experiences.
From the U.S., fly Japan Airlines or ANA into Osaka (KIX) or Tokyo (NRT/HND) — both connect easily to Kyoto by Shinkansen. JAL's Sky Suite and ANA's The Room are among the finest business class products in the sky, making the 13–16 hour journey genuinely part of the experience.